Sunday, 27 September 2009

La Fortuna

From Monteverde we headed on to La Fortuna. On a map it appears these two little towns are quite close to one another, however due to the fact that all the land between them is Rainforest reserves its actually quite a journey. First we had to take a bus to Lake Arenal, then get a boat across it, and then another bus to La Fortuna.

La Fortuna sits in the shadow of Volcano Arenal, which incidently is one of the most active volcanos in Central America (and I actually saw it erupt when I was in Costa Rica last time).

Lake Arenal


Volcano Arenal in the distance


Our little ferry boat


One thing I forgot to write about in Monteverde was how much it rained... and how heavily. Well as the below photo shows, La Fortuna was no different.

When it rains, it pours!



There are many activities to do whilst in La Fortuna, however for me one of the most underated is a visit to Arenal Waterfall. Its an amazing waterfall where the valley suddenly falls away out of nothing. Its fun to swim in the pool too, and luckily the rain held off just long enough for us to do exactly that.

Arenal Waterfall


And again...


And again :)


Swimming


The big Swede explaining to me he'd lost his contacts


Downstream

While we were at the waterfall michael found this little critter underneath a rock. We assumed due to how flat the rock his body looked that he was unfortunately dead. After we'd taken a few photos Michael decided to give the little chap a nudge... at which point his tail shot up in the air and he scuttled back into his hiding place. It turns out he was just sunning himself in order to raise his body temperature, what with scorpions being cold blooded n all.

Playing dead


After we'd swum in the waterfall pool we headed slightly downstream for another little swim and found there was more than just us in the river.

Lots of little fishes


After a day at the waterfall we decided to head to the hotsprings that La Fortuna is also famous for. We didn't head to any normal hotsprings though, we headed to a 5star resort. Unfortunately again it was raining, but it didn't dampen our spirits.

Rain rain go away



Hot springs waterslide

The resort had a nice pool table and a darts board, me and Eric had a good few games of spears. The first one literally lasted about an hour haha, not so accurate.

Bullseye

La Fortuna would be the last stop of the tour before we finished in San Jose. A few of the group had a few more days in Costa Rica before heading home or onwards like myself. So we got together and under my guide decided to travel down to Manuel Antonio to see the beaches and national park.

Thursday, 24 September 2009

Monteverde, Costa Rica

Our arrival in Costa Rica, and more importantly Monteverde, was very special to me and my time in Costa Rica was one of the most important things I was planning for my trip. This was because, as many of you will know, I had visisted Costa Rica and Monteverde some 12 yrs previously on a school trip to see how the school's fundraising efforts were being used at the Children's Rainforest Reserve.

It was actually quite strange to be back in Monteverde, not least because the town had changed and grown so much in the 12yrs since I was last there, it actually wasn't until our second day that I truely saw things I remembered from last time.

Our hotel terrace in Monteverde


And on the second night we actually ate in a restaurant I had eaten in 12yrs previously. The restaurant was called Johnny's Pizzeria and the food was just as delicious as it had been the last time I ate there. The below photo shows me and the big Swede enjoying a cheers in the restaurant.

Salud!!



Despite having two nights in Monteverde we only really had one day to explore the town and its surrounding reserves etc. The main activity everyone had planned for Monteverde was to go ziplinning. This involves being strapped onto huge ziplines (very similar to flying foxes) and hurtling through the forest canopy at breakneck speeds. Its a great way to see the flora and fauna of the canopy, and slightly more exciting than merely walking on the hanging bridges.

I have to say at this point it wasn't something that was particularly high on my list of things to do, and as such I decided to go for the slightly less adrenaline fueled activity of visiting an Insect house and Serpentarium at the same reserve.

The insect house houses the world's third largest display of insects, (all dead unfortunately) and was infact incredibly interesting. As no one else went on the tour with me it was a one to one tour with the guide, and I learnt a great deal.

Beautiful butterflies



Albino butterflies, I didn't even know these existed


There were some amazing insects on display, the kind of thing even in the Costa Rican rainforest you very rarely get to see. The below bad boys were two of the largest insects on the planet, the stick insect (or walking stick as they are known out here) was about 40 to 50cm long, and the chap next to him is actually caught and eaten as a meal in its native Africa.

Meals and walking sticks


Huge butterflies


As always though my personal favourites were the displays of scorpions and tarrantulas. They were amazing.

Look at the size of that African Emporer...



...And those hairy buggers too


Immediately after the insect house I had a tour of the serpentarium too, which was again amazing. This time the inhabitants were alive... which is always more fun.

Sydney snake

The snakes below were called Fer-de-lance's, they are the most dangerous snakes in Central and South America as they are among the most poisonous and also the most aggressive.

Fer-de-lance's


The snake below is called the Eyelash Pit Viper, and it's nickname is the death kisser. This is due to the fact it is known to bite workers in the coffee plantations in the face. Nice.

The Eyelash Pit Viper



Another little Sydney snake

Whilst on the tour I was also taught how to quickly identify whether a snake is poisonous or not. It is all to do with the shape of the eyes and the number of scales on the head. Now in my eyes, if your close enough to a snake to check these things you're also close enough for it to bite you.... I've decided to just assume all snakes are poisonous, I think it's safer that way!
All in all it was a very informative afternoon, and I feel I've now passed some of my knowledge onto you people too.

The Island of Ometepe

Having spent the majority of the last few days being based in towns or cities our next location was a little more remote, a little beach hotel on the Isle of Ometepe in Lake Nicaragua.

The hotel


The beach



Ometepe's landscape is dominated by two volcano's. Madera Volcano stands at 1340m whereas it's larger sister, Concepcion, is 1640m. Me, Nick and Eric quickly formed a plan to hike Concepcion, and as a 10 to 12 hr hike it wasn't going to be easy. As you can see from the photo's below it's a very arid landscape once you get up past the mid point. The final leg of the hike has to be undertaken by crawling on your chest in order to get to the crater's edge and see in. The actual edge of the crater is apparently quite delicate and has been known to crumble and fall in.

Concepcion and Madera


Concepcion


Unfortunately due to recent flash floods on the island the hike up Concepcion was deemed too dangerous to undertake by our local guide. As such a few people decided to hike the smaller Madera. I however took my bat and ball home and decided if I couldn't hike Concepcion I didn't want to hike anything. haha. So instead I spent the day on the beach and did absolutely nothing. And what a decision it was, the hiking group returned, with the majority verdict being that it had turned out to be a lot of effort for nothing too special.

Michael following his return from the hike


Passing traffic on the beach


We only really had two nights on Ometepe (this is a GAP tour afterall, no time for resting!!) and on the second night it was Rosie's birthday. As such we all went out for a meal together to a new little restaurant just round the corner from our hotel.
Now one thing I've quickly learnt about Central America from our GAP trip is alot of the restaurant's don't really know how to cope with more than about six people... and with sixteen people in our group this has caused some interesting results. However this restaurant took the biscuit, from entering the restaurant it was four hrs before we got our food. And in fairness the only reason we got our food then was becuase our guide, Maria, had gone into the kitchen and taken charge. During this time we had an electrical storm which had caused a powercut and the big Swede had marched out (mental note - never deprive a large Swede of food after he's been on an 8hr trek haha).

Rosie's birthday cake


In the end it got so ridculous the only thing to do was laugh about it, and as I reminded people we were on a tiny island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua... things just don't work the same as back home.
Our next destination however would be a marked contrast to Ometepe and the rest of Central America, as it was onwards to Costa Rica.

Wednesday, 23 September 2009

Volcano's and Lagoon's

Whilst staying in Grenada a number of activities were available to us. Having spent the last couple of days sat on buses (and speedboats) I was more than ready for a little exercise (and so were some of the rest of the group). As such on our first day in Grenada a select few of us headed to one of the many volcano's in the area to trek round the perimeter of the now dormant cone.

The volcano was so steep that to get up to the summit to begin the trek we had to take what can only be described as an ex-military four by four.

The volcano taxi


The journey up


We first trekked round the perimeter of one of the smaller, also dormant, craters with some amazing views.

The crater


Next we set off with our guides on the 4hr hike round the larger more prominent cone. It was a relatively hard slog with a lot of steep up hill (and consequently downhill) sections.

The views were very rewarding until the dreaded cloud enveloped us.

Steep up hills


And down hills too


The reward for our efforts


It was a strenuous yet rewarding day, however I'm pleased to say our chosen activity for the following day was far more relaxing. Our guide, Maria, told us about another extinct volcano nearby whose crater was now filled with water and had a number of low key resorts dotted around the resultant lagoon. One such resort had a nice pool, sunbeds and little 'beach' which we could use whilst also having lunch there.
We all jumped at the chance of a nice relaxing day in the sun, especially once we found out our chosen form of transport for the day would be an open backed truck.

The taxi transport


The view en route


We were indeed treated to a relaxing afternoon of sunbathing, swimming and a spot of pool volleyball. Check the photo of the big Swede about to spike us to victory.

A very relaxing affair



Pool volleyball


Victory to Sweden


It was indeed a nice relaxing way to spend the afternoon, especially knowing we had another long day of travel ahead of us. The next day we were again to be up and out early inorder to get to the island of Ometepe in the middle of Lake Nicaragua.

Tegucigalpa and on to Grenada

Early starts are getting to be somewhat of a regular occurance on the trip, this time it was a seven o'clock departure by speedboat back to the mainland.

It's so much more fun traveling by speedboat


The mainland in the distance


Once we hit the mainland it was back to traveling by bus, mores the pity (just as I was getting used to speedboats as well). Our next stop was the capital city of Honduras, Tegucigalpa. Tegucigalpa isn't a particularly nice place... infact I believe it's ranked in the world's top ten Most Dangerous Cities (bear in mind that this list includes cities in war zones such as Baghdad and Khabul).

In this regard it will not surprise you to know that staying in Tegucigalpa was merely a travel break before continuing on to Nicaragua the next day.

The edge of the urban sprawl


The road into Tegucigalpa


With little (safe) to do in Tegucigalpa we headed to a western mall for a bite to eat and to pick up supplies for tomorrow's day of travel.

The Mall



Little banana's, big banana's
Our hotel in Tegucigalpa was less than delightful and I don't think anyone was particularly worried we only spent a matter of hours there. Again the next morning it was another early start as we headed to the Nicaraguan border.

Bienvenidos a Nicaragua


Once over the border we headed straight for Grenada. Grenada is situated on the shores of Lake Nicaragua and is the smaller (and far more attractive) sister city of the capital, Managua.
The hotel in Grenada was a far nicer affair than that in Tegucigalpa, if a little dated. Its location couldn't be faulted though, directly on the main street between the central square and the lake's edge.

Hospedaje Cocibolla


At night the main street was alive with restaurant's and bar's, not to mention the odd break dancing street performer's.

The main street, at a far quieter time of day


As with many places I've visited so far, Grenada sported some wonderful architecture... not least around the central square.

The Cathedral



Another beautiful building on the perimeter of the central square